Bakán

Hola a todos! Hope this martes finds you all well. It has been a while since I have written, but rest assured, it has been for good reason. The past few weeks have been a whirlwind. I started my medical internship at Consultorio Reina Isabel II, a local clinic in Valparaíso. I've been to the Atacama Desert and was once again made aware of how minuscule our existence is in the universe. I went skiing in the Andes outside of Santiago, which was without a doubt a highlight of the trip. I say these things not to boast, but to reflect on my time here and take mental inventory of the incredible beauty I have experienced here in Chile! Sunday my Chilean family got together one last time before I leave. It almost hurts me to type that. No tengo ganas de irme. Recently, I have realized how comfortable I have become here. It has only been two short months, so how is it possible to be settled into a new city, with a new family, a new job, a new language? I'm not sure I have the answer to the question, but I'm glad it happened. It is with a grateful frustration that I write this blog post in english, because I have used so little of the language here that my writing has suffered. I am so thankful to have the opportunity to pick up the skill of language learning, and I hope it is something I will continue for the rest of my life. By no means am I fluent. In fact, I don't think I ever will be, but the ability to navigate (I misspelled that word the first time, so I think that proves my point.) another language and communicate with people 5,000 miles away from home with something special. That opportunity, that passion, that calling is not something I can take lightly, and for that I am grateful.

Enough about my feelings, you came here to live vicariously through me right? Right. I'll try not to disappoint. As I said, there has been a lot going on here the past few weeks, so here's a quick summary of each adventure. I'll be the first to admit, saying these experiences as "cool" is a criminally underwhelming description of lo que ha pasado recientemente. So I choose to describe what I've seen and done as: bakán.

Bakán (bah-kahn) adj.- A Chilenismo used to describe something as "cool"

During the second month of my program, I have been given the opportunity to work in a local consultorio in Valpo. This has been a fantastic chance to learn about a foreign healthcare system and expand my knowledge of general healthcare practice, and I can truly say I am glad I chose this program. The real challenge has been doing all this in Spanish. The comical reality is while I have learned an incredible amount during my time at the clinic and met some amazing people, there are still conversations with technical medical terms that I am not sure I'll ever understand. While at times cripplingly under-funded, the public healthcare system of Chile still manages to serve the local community at no cost to residents, a system that the United States lacks. Being in this environment really does give me a new perspective on the conditions and policies of US healthcare. Ask me sometime, I'm sure I could go for hours.

Second on the agenda is a summary of the trip to San Pedro de Atacama. San Pedro is a small town of about 5,000 people on the edge of the driest desert on earth located in northern Chile near the borders of Argentina and Bolivia. My friends Mitch, Charlie, Doug and I spent four days here over a long weekend experiencing some of the most desolate landscapes on earth. For me, it is hard to say which was my favorite part, as each tour offered something completely unique and gave me a new appreciation for how small I am in the grand scheme of things. In the span of two days we saw sparkling blue lagoons at 14,000 ft, flamingos in the third largest salt flat on Earth, floated in a salt pool, visited a geyser field at almost 15,000 ft, and laid in the road staring at one of the clearest nights I've ever seen. It is honestly a trip probably a trip best described by pictures, so without further ado:

 I went skiing in the Andes. Yes, you read that correctly. Last Saturday a group of seven from my program went to the resort La Parva for a day of skiing at around 10,000 ft. I'm not the most experienced skier, but I'd like to say I did all right! We had a great time, and left the mountain super exhausted. Surely I've said enough about the beauty of Chile, but once again the views were breathtaking. Looking down on the sprawling city of Santiago from the snow was a mental picture I'll keep for years to come. Thanks to Charlie, I have GoPro footage of me skiing in the morning!

View from the top of the mountain

Well, that's about it for this time. Next up, a long-awaited, six day trip to Peru to meet up with long lost friend and roommate Cody Burton. My time here in Chile has come to an end.  I am extremely thankful for the opportunities and experiences I have had here, and I cannot wait to apply the skills I have developed here when I return home. It has been so much more than bakán; it has been unforgettable. I sincerely hope that I will be returning one day to this place I have grown to love. Looking forward to seeing you all soon!

Chao,

Blake

Montañas, cascadas y otra wea

Parece que time has gotten away from me. My summer here in Chile is more than halfway over, and I'm not really sure where the time is going.  Since my last post, I've watched about two days worth of fútbol and celebrated the success of both Chile and the US (thus far). I am truly loving the passion for sport here. It's on another level to what we experience back home. Stores close, buses stop, they fire up the grills for an asado, people pour into the streets with flags, horns, and open containers to celebrate cada victoria de La Roja. Classes are now over, and my internship at Consultorio Reina Isabel starts this week. With little over three weeks to go, thoughts of leaving are starting to creep in, and with them come mixed feelings of leaving my Chilean family and getting to see my American one. Some travel during the past few weeks has brought with it quite a few revelations. We'll take a weekend to go and experience a new place, do some hiking, or get to know a new town. At the end of the trip I find myself longing to get back home... home: Valparaíso. I admit that my time here is strikingly short and hardly long enough to get to know a city, but I feel a connection to this city. For that reason, I foresee it being very hard to leave. For now, those feelings can wait. There is so much more to learn in my time here!

Trek 1 to Parque Nacional La Campana can be defined as strenuous, slightly reckless, but altogether gratifying. The journey to the park includes a 45 minute metro ride followed by a 20 minute bus ride to the entrance to the park. Our group arrived around 11am, meaning that a near breakneck pace was needed to make the trip before nightfall. Cerro La Campana rises 1880 meters (6,168ft) above the park, offering view of the Pacific on one side and the Andes on the other. We were rewarded with stunning views and knee deep snow for our trouble. First Chilean dirt on my hiking shoes: check.

La vista corta la respiración

This past weekend I traveled to Pucón with some friends from class. This adventure tourism capital of Chile is about 12 hours from Valparaíso by bus and offers beaches, climbing, and mountain biking in the summer, and skiing in the winter. There I got my first taste of hostel culture, which as it turns out, is just a conglomeration of people from all over wanting to experience the world in which we live. There is something fascinating about language, and some of my favorite moments here have been exchanges jumping back and forth from english to spanish.

The trip began with a horse ride through Mapuche territory outside the town of Pucón. The guide was of Mapuche descent, the indigenous population of Chile, and it was incredible discussing the lifestyle, language, and politics of his people. After the two hour horse ride and two day sore body, I'm just thinking my body wasn't made for horses. I think I'll stick to sports where I can use my feet.

Day 2 consisted of a hike through Parque Nacional Huerquehue, a fairly popular attraction in the area. Once again, el invierno got the better of us, as part of the trail was closed due to snowfall. Nevertheless, we threw on our rain jackets, sealed up our lunches, and wrapped our feet in plastic bags (yes.. that actually happened) and hit the trail. Two scenic waterfalls, seven kilometers, and what felt like two meters of rainfall later, we returned to our hostel by bus to dry off before hitting the much needed Los Polzones hot springs that night.

Braving the conditions

Day 3 promised a hike of Volcan Villarica according to the trekking guides, but the weather had other ideas. We ascended to the base of the volcano only to find that the conditions were too hazardous to make the ascent. Nevertheless, determined to find adventure, we set out to find the hidden gem Saltos del Claro. It is so obscure that apparently one has to hand draw a map of the area. Thanks to either our eagerness or the ambiguity of the map, we ended up more or less lost in the forest for about two hours. Finally, after giving up our hunt for the falls, we stumbled across the fallen tree that the map spoke of. There, like a fluffy pillow on the overnight bus ride, like a warm towel and a cup of coffee after our hike in the rain, wound the trail down the hillside. Charlie and I of course took off running to see the falls, and no doubt experienced the moment of the weekend at first sight of them. Sheer, random, unfiltered joy. Finally, feeling accomplished and exhausted, we returned to the hostel to back our things and prepare to return to reality. Then we saw the sunset.

Valió la pena

The opportunity to travel brings with it the re-realization of one's infinitesimally small place here. Almost every afternoon the sun sets in a brilliant mixture of reds, oranges, and yellows laid out across the pacific sky. The immeasurable amount of water rushing from a cliff 85 meters to amphitheater of wonder, drenching you with spray and blocking out all other sounds. The temblors that send shivers through you as you realize the helplessness you would feel in a real earthquake. The thin air of the mountains that reveals silence louder than you have ever heard and the majesty of the Creator who established all of it with only His voice. It all points to something.

Psalm 104:31-32
"May the glory of the Lord endure forever; may the Lord rejoice in his works-- he who looks at the earth, and it trembles, who touches the mountains, and they smoke."

Hasta luego chicos,
BAB

La Roja

¿Como stai? I'm back with a shiny new update from South America! As always, I am grateful that you decided to follow the link here and check in. Over three weeks down, and I cannot believe how fast time is passing. I'm posting this a few days later than I intended to, but nevertheless, I will try to keep it as condensed as possible.

First, a quick summary of last weekend. Saturday and Sunday were excursion days organized by ISA. The first, titled "Playas del Norte" took us to various beaches north of the city which were accompanied by some nice weather and breath-taking views. One highlight was the horse ride we took in Concón. Taking $6 horse ride without signing a waiver or wearing a helmet may not have been the safest decision I have ever made, but it went off without a hitch (for me at least), and we enjoyed some beautiful views of the beach before stopping for lunch in the fishing town of Horcón. Believe it or not, that is not a typo. Here in Chile, theres Horcón, Pucón, here con, there con, everywhere a Concón. Cartographer's nightmare, am I right? Bad jokes aside, the trip continued with the final destination of Zapallar, a town nestled in the green hills of the central region with a spectacular view of the ocean. It was fascinating to observe the economic differences between this area and Valparaíso. This town had the feel of a summer vacation town on Highway 1 in California. Most of the students took the twenty minute, lightpost-adorned, cobblestone-paved, ivy-covered walk to the point of the beach. Here we found a rocky outcropping which provided without a doubt one of the views of the trip so far. 

View from Zapallar

Sunday began with an excursion to the ironically named Isla Negra, because it's not really an island at all. Here we took our third tour of the houses de Pablo Neruda. The man was brilliant, well-travelled, and an incredible writer. It seems my slowly improving Spanish is almost like a key unlocking a door to a different world of literature I would otherwise never know of. I am certainly looking forward to learning more about the poet, the man, the real-estate agent (chiste), Pablo Neruda. The trip continued with dinner and shopping in the town of Pomaire. The highlights here were one kilo empanadas, which translates to 2.2 pounds, enorme! I was not brave enough to try one of these delicious monsters, but those that finished them were soon rewarded with stomach aches for the rest of the day. Here I purchased my first souvenirs of the trip, some hand made ceramic cups and a bowl, perfect for the always luxurious Crowne apartments next year. Who knows, maybe I'll end up like Neruda with a house filled with a random mixture of cultural and sentimental items.

Location, Location, Location.

Next, we continue with the world's and my deporte favorito, fútbol. First, a confession: I would be lying if I said that the location of my study abroad trip wasn't at least in part influenced by the South American countries playing in the World Cup. The passion for fútbol here rivals the fall in Knoxville, TN, and that's saying something. For this reason, the topic this week is:

La Roja- the reds; A nickname given to the Chilean national team.

El Mundial. The single largest sporting event on the planet. No wonder the entire country is buzzing with excitement at the prospect of a world cup on South American soil. Evidence of this is everywhere, from the kids playing on the pitch down the street to a national team jersey on every third person downtown; the belief in la selección Chilena is something else. Despite being drawn in an extremely difficult group, the "golden generation" of Chilean football hopes to progress over defending champion Spain and finalist Holland. The build up to the world cup overall has been very positive for the Chileans. After a flying start to the qualifying campaign, they suffered six straight defeats, which led to a sacking of former manager Claudio Borghi. Under current manager, Jorge Sampaoli, La Roja have seen a turnaround in results, victories over Uruguay and England, a third-place in CONMEBOL qualifying, and a revamped high-pressure and high-scoring system. 

"This is the jersey of all Chileans, symbol of the union and hope of an entire country. Let's go Chile, because believing is in our nature."

The final two warm-up matches included a 3-2 victory over Egypt and a 2-0 victory over Northern Ireland here in Valparaíso. When I heard that the send off match was in Valpo, I had to get a ticket. Wednesday night, mi padre David, Doug and I set out for the stadium in Playa Ancha for the 8pm kick-off. Chile had a somewhat impressive performance, struggling to breakdown the Irish until the introduction of star forwards Alexis Sanchez and Eduardo Vargas. It will be interesting to see how they do again the much more solid Spanish and Dutch sides in week's time. Some highlights of the night were learning the chants of the team, as well as some comical curse words shouted from the stands. It was a special experience for my Chilean father as well, as it was his first time seeing La Roja in person, and I thoroughly enjoyed discussing the match with him afterward. It is just over three days before the first match, and I can't stand the wait. Don't worry, I haven't forsaken my homeland just yet. I will definitely be cheering on the Red, White, and Blue from 5,000 miles away as well. Go, go USA!

Doug and I before the match

Estadio Elías Figueroa Brander

Viva Chile,

Blake

Harto

Buenas noches a todos,

Hope this post finds you well and thanks for checking in. Here in Valparaíso, things have settled in nicely. It is now much easier to find my way around the city, classes are in full swing, and my spanish is showing steady, albeit sometimes frustrating improvement. This opportunity is an absolute privilege, and I want to remember every detail.

So naturally, I filmed my walk to class

We were told that the whirlwind that is a study abroad comes in stages. I'm sure by reading previous posts (you did read them, right?), you can tell that I have definitely had a "honeymoon phase" here in Chile. Everything is shiny, new and inviting, fun and exciting, and I could scarcely believe the opportunities available to me. As the acclimation process continues, I have to admit, I have experienced some unexpected obstacles. Sometimes I struggle to find energy and focus. Sometimes I struggle to pray. Sometimes I'd rather just Skype friends than talk with my Chilean family. Sometimes my brain just can't take any more spanish. Please know that I say all this not to complain, for I am more than happy here. Being content in any situation certainly comes with steadfastness and a bit of perspective. When I started this blog, I told myself and others that I would be honest, and I think I'm doing myself and you all a disservice if I write with a rose-tinted pen. De todos modos, back to the good stuff.

At this point you may be saying: "Yeah that's great Blake, but what do you actually do in Chile?"
My answer, inquisitive reader is:

Harto (ar-toe) (adj.)- a lot.

For the next four weeks, I am taking two classes: Literatura Hispanoamericana y Grammática Avanzada. Class is a bit more relaxed than in the states, and the courses are designed for international students. Being the nerd that I am, the literature course particularly interests me because we will not only be exploring contemporary Hispanic American stories and poetry, but also discovering the motivation behind and emotions infused by the authors that wrote them.

Since I last wrote, I have attended an impressive Chilean military parade, seen a bit of the remarkable architecture and attractions that Viña has to offer, watched a perfect sun set from sand dunes situated right outside of town, and probably eaten one and a half times my body weight in pancito. So a quick review of those:

21 de Mayo in a very important day in Chilean history. It marks the naval battle of Iquique during the War of the Pacific. Every year, the Chilean military hosts a parade downtown in honor of those that fought, including the commander and hero Arturo Prat. The parade took place in Valpo's easily most notable square. La Plaza Sotomayor could be seen as the city center, with the blue military headquarters on one side and the blue Pacific port on the other. Some friends and I went to the parade, which began at 12, and watched the procession of soldiers. Lunch followed at a nearby restaurant, where I devoured a three course meal including "pescado a la pobre," fish on a bed of french fries with two eggs over easy on top. That meal was certainly not lacking in protein. The day's activities concluded with a few games of poker and a short walk back house for a much needed tutito (nap).

Friends in Plaza Sotomayor

Entonces, Sunday was the yearly celebration of national culture in Viña and Valpo. As a result, all cultural activities and government palaces were open and free to the public, and to take advantage of this, Doug and I took a trip to Viña del Mar to see the presidential palace to see what is essentially the second home of La Presidenta Michelle Bachelet. The palace stonework was beautiful, and the images framed in the stain glass windows were spectacular. Set on Cerro Castillo, the palace has one of the premier views of the city, so of course we took advantage of that with some pictures. Doug had to return to spend some time with his family, so I continued exploring. During the afternoon, I also visited the Reloj de Flores, a beautiful garden with a clock made of flowers that was a present from the Swiss government, and Castillo Wulff, a picturesque German castle set on the rocky outcropping of the city's coast. It goes without saying, I don't really need to worry about getting bored during my time here.

An attempt to describe the views from the dunes of Concón might fail miserably, so I think I prefer to leave you with pictures. We went up here for the afternoon to goof around and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Maybe I should change my major to photography?

Once again, thanks for stopping by. I hope you enjoyed my ramblings about my time here in Chile. Tune in next time for: Chile vs. Northern Ireland in Valparaíso!

¿Catchai?

It has been almost a whole week here in Chile! Seems that every day is a new adventure here. The trip began with a ten hour flight out of Dallas to the capital city, Santiago. The city is.. como se dice.. amazing. The city of over six million people is situated in the shadow of the Andes mountains, and each morning we had a stunning view of the sunrise over the already bustling megalopolis that is Santiago. After spending three days seeing the sights of the city, getting to know my ISA compañeros and adjusting to the culture and language. The sightseeing and tourist-y feel of the first few days served as a trial period for the next few months, but we were told the immersion begins in Valparaíso.

Santiago from Cerro San Cristóbal

Sunday, we arrived in Valparaíso, our home for the next few months. Walking into Católica (the university) to meet my host family was the most nervous I have been in a while. My life for the next few months depends, at least in part, on the hospitality of these people I have never met! Pero no te preocupes, the members of the Clobares/ Burgos family have been a huge blessing for me. They are some of the most welcoming and accommodating people that I have met, and I already feel a part of the family. Our home is situated on Cerro Larrain, only a ten minute walk from the university. The first night, the whole family took me on the roof of the house, and we began to talk for hours about, well everything. From the roof you can see all parts of Valparaíso, and there David shared with me stories of his work and childhood in Valpo. Here in Chile, it's customary to greet members of one's family with a big hug, and a kiss on the cheek. It seems strange, but to me it is a sign of inclusion into the family. Two days in and I have already met my oldest brother and his seven month old daughter, Sofia, as well as mi abuelita, or grandmother, and each welcomes me with the same warm embrace.

View of Valpo from the roof

The food is fantastic and the city is more beautiful than I had even imagined. Valparaíso is a city rich with art, culture and influence from all parts of the world. The city is separated by Cerros (hills) that divide the city into neighborhoods, each with a unique view of the ocean. Underneath the hills is the city plan, which seems alive with memories and influence of the golden age of Valparaíso. Before the construction of the Panama Canal, Valpo was a coastal center of the southern hemisphere, but even today one sees its magnificence in the details of the stonework of the buildings. Thank goodness I have two months to explore the city and its nearby neighbor, Viña del Mar.

¿Catchai? (catch-eye)- a verb meaning "to catch." One says this in conversation meaning "you got it/ you understand?"

I chose this word because of the whirlwind that learning Spanish has been the past few days. Poco a poco, I am learning and becoming accustomed to the speed and nuances of Chilean spanish. Honestly, it has been quite a humbling experience. Being immersed in that language takes so much more energy than I had imagined, but honestly I wouldn't have it any other way. Every moment of the day is an opportunity to learn, engage, and challenge myself. Each conversation is new and interesting; every newspaper and advertisement a chance to "catch" a new word. I suppose it is something that we undervalue in the US, the ability to communicate. It is incredible to learn a new language because it allows communication with a vast group of new people with a different world view from yours. It is something I hope to continue learning and valuing for the rest of my life. Even so, being in such an unfamiliar place is reinforcing to me the words of Proverbios 3:5-6-

"Confía en el Señor de todo corazón, y no en tu propia inteligencia. Reconócelo en todos tus caminos, y él allanará tus sendas."

Somethings I am looking forward to: The start of classes, La Copa Mundial, and traveling through Chile.

Mis amigos de ISA

¡Nos vemos pronto!

¿Cómo stai?

¡Hola y bienvenidos a mi blog! First off, thank you for taking the time to check up on me and to read about my international travels. For me, this blog serves two purposes: primarily, to inform and educate friends and family about the trip, and secondarily, to serve as a personal reflection space and journal to preserve the memories and experiences of this summer. Throughout the summer I hope to post here weekly chronicling the people, places, and events I have experienced during that time. My goal for the summer is to immerse myself in the Chilean culture, as much as is possible for a tall, caucasian gringo anyway. The general outline for the summer includes four weeks of Spanish classes at the Pontificia Universidad Católica de Valparaíso, the local university, followed by a four-week internship at the Consultorio Reina Isabel, a leading hospital in the area. My last week in South America will be spent in Cuzco, Peru roaming the Incan ruins and dizzying heights of the Andes before returning to my original home sweet home, Rocky Top.

Hillside in Valpo

In an effort to catalyze the immersion and hopefully impart some spanish language and culture to you all, I will be titling each post after a chilenismo, or Chilean slang word that I have heard, seen, or been impacted by during that week. This week, I will fittingly be starting out simple:

¿Cómo stai? (koh-moe sty)- An informal way of saying "how are you?;" spelling due to Chilean pronunciation

To be honest, I'm not really sure where to start with this. Tomorrow begins the adventure of a lifetime, ten weeks in South America. Tomorrow, only a week removed from the completion of my sophomore year at Tennessee, after wading through a crowd of bittersweet goodbyes, countless last-minute runs to Walgreen's, and attempting to pack essential items for Chilean winter, I leave the comfort and safety of the United States for the unknown and exciting Valparaíso. As you can probably infer, there are many emotions accompanying this experience. What am I feeling? Excitement, elation, joy, nervousness, thankfulness, fear, you name it. Undoubtedly, this trip is exactly what I have hoped and prayed for for years. This summer I have the opportunity to pair my passions for hispanic culture with my interests in healthcare and (hopefully) my future profession. I am looking forward to meeting and forming relationships with my host family, the Clobares's, witnessing the beauty of creation of the Chilean landscape and making Valpo my second home. Traveling is a beautiful thing that opens our eyes to indescribable and humbling beauty, allows us to tell incredible tales, and takes us down avenues of discovery unimaginable, and I am thrilled to begin to experience all of the above. Tomorrow.

I leave you with a quote from Ernest Hemingway:

"It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end."

Thank you all for continued prayer and support and please stay in touch!

Un abrazo,
Blake